The great bulk of dress, or "business" shoes fit snugly into two broad categories. Oxfords are any lace-up men’s shoes that don’t rise above the ankle. Of course, within the Oxford category, there are many varieties, both structural and stylistic.
Open-laced (Bluchers) oxfords have the sides of the shoe sewn on top of the front part. When laced, the shoe looks like it’s built out in segments. Front, top, side, back, etc. Close-laced oxfords are drawn together by laces sewn under the front part of the shoe and then closed over its tongue. The result is a shoe that looks as if it’s made from one piece of leather.
Some oxfords have a separate piece of leather on the shoe’s toe (also known as a "cap toe"). This leather may be plain or decorated with brogueing (leather embroidery). "Saddle" oxfords have a saddle-shaped piece of leather of a different color, or leather type, over the shoe’s instep. "Kilties" are oxfords with a tongue of fringed leather that is draped over the instep to cover the shoe’s laces and eyelets. The "wingtip" is arguably the most common of all oxfords. This footwear features toe brogueing that resembles a bird with its wings spread.
When it comes to your oxfords, never settle for anything less than genuine leather. And no matter the structural design or the style of the leather finish, when worn in black, all oxford styles match with business suits. Black, leather, close-laced oxfords, however, are the more formal dress shoe. They work especially well with pinstriped suits and double-breasted suits. If brown, they can be worn with tweed suits and sport jackets. When worn in brown or oxblood, open-laced oxfords match with everything from jeans and khakis, to light suits and sports coats.
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